Kit Assembly

 

The first step in putting your kit together is to assemble the valves. Each valve is composed of a 3/16" fitting, the valve itself, and a 1/8" fitting.
The fittings first need to be wrapped with pipe thread tape.
The fittings can then be screwed into the valve body. The 1/8" fitting is attached to the "IN" port of the valve.
Tighten until it is snug and points straight up.
The 3/16" fitting goes on the opposite end and is tightened so that it point straight down.
The completed assembly.
All 16 valves assembled.
This is the easiest time to attach tubing to the valves. Each application is different so you must determine how long each piece should be. The row of valves closest to the back of the bracket will be shorter than the valves farther away. Make sure that the bend of the tubing bends in line with the valve body. The shorter one should bend away from the valve and the longer one should bend over the valve as shown in the image on the left. This will make for a uniform set of tube ends after they are threaded through the bracket.
Starting with the back row, slide a valve into place. Insert the tubing first...
And then align it with the holes on the base as shown in the image on the right.
Using the 8mm screws provided......
loosely attach the valve with a single screw. By leaving it a little loose, it's easier to put on the rest of the valves.
Continue attaching valves in order and one at a time until the entire row is attached. Make sure the tab connectors all face away from the tubing.  At this point you may go in and thread in the remaining screws and finally tighten them all. Do not over tighten the screws, as the plastic valve housing can strip.
Do the same for the front row, but leave the tubing out. This will make wiring much easier.
For wiring it's best to run your wire through your enclosure before stripping the wire. On the valve end, about 12" will need to be stripped.( right)
The valves are 1/2" apart so after stripping the cable, the wires need to be cut in lengths that are 1/2" increments. The wire leading to valve one will not be cut at all,  the wire for valve 2 will be 1/2" shorter than that, the wire for valve 3 will be 1/2" shorter than the wire for valve 2, etc. The included fork connectors will then need to be crimped to the ends of these wires. The opposite end of the cable needs about 2" stripped. The pins for the dsub connector will need to be crimped to this end. The cable should resemble the one on the right. Note the image on the left uses rings instead of forks, but the process is the same.
The wiring diagram on the right shows how the board connects to the valves. The purple line represents the common power. This common connects all the valves to pins 11 and 12 on the board. The common should be connected last and will zig zag back and forth from valve to valve so that all valves common tabs are connected.

The green wires represent the ground source for each individual valve. Valve 1 gets connected to pin 23, Valve 2 to pin 10, Valve 3 to pin 22, Valve 4 to pin 9, etc. Each valve will have only one associated ground line.

Now, starting with valve #1 (farthest left attach a #6 sheet metal screw to a tab connector on the valve as shown in the image.
Continue with the next valve from left to right until all valves are wired. Be sure to wire the same tab on each valve all the way down the line.
All 16 valves wired. The forks will need to be bent down at an angle so the final common wire may be wired across the remaining valve terminals. All the wiring so far should be tucked down below the terminals.
The next step in wiring is to wire the common. The common is a piece of bare copper wire that is wrapped from terminal to terminal, crossing back and forth from valve to valve. This wire connects the open terminal from each valve together. You can see it in the photo on the right.
Top view schematic of wiring. Purple common wire crosses back and forth from one row of valves to the other.
When the wiring is complete, the outer row of tubing may be threaded through the bracket.
The dsub pins will now need to be inserted into the dsub connector making sure of which wire goes to which pin. If you're using a Lazydrinker board, a color coded wiring diagram will be provided. The completed assembly is shown on the right.
The nylon thumb screws are threaded into the open holes in the bottom of the bracket and are used to hold the funnel in place.
Assembly with funnel attached.
At the right are the components use for the air line. The 5/16" fitting on the right gets connected to the hose from your CO2 tank. The light blue panel mount fitting is used as the CO2 connection for your machine. then 3/16 white fitting plugs into the panel mount fittings and is then connected to the machines air line. The four blue fittings on the left form the air line. As all machines are different, you'll need to set yours up accordingly but they should generally look like this. Elbows for terminations and T's for inline connectors. Look at the interior shot of the Lazydrinker to see how I did it.
After you install the valve bracket to it's permanent location, you need to attach it's fittings. The valve bracket uses the 1/8" black female fittings. The image at the right shows four fittings attached.
The bottle assemblies use both black and blue  3/16" fittings . You should use 3/16" I.D. tubing when connecting the fittings to the cap assemblies. The 3/16" tubing is the softer tubing. Use the harder 1/4" nylon tubing for the suction tube that goes inside your bottles. The suction tube must be connected to the same side of the cap insert as the blue fitting is. If it is not, the system won't work.
The image on the right shows how the cap should connect to the machine after everything is assembled.